The Meadow restaurant, Brighton/Hove – review

Posted on February 22, 2011

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The Meadow restaurant, Brighton/Hove

Light and airy with food to die for, The Meadow in Brighton is a culinary gem that should not be missed.

In a large, open building, light coloured furniture and quirky artwork sets the relaxed tone of the restaurant. It feels more like a cafe than a restaurant, reflected in the casual attire of all its patrons.

However chilled the atmosphere, the food is of an impeccable standard. With carefully crafted portion sizes just enough to make you want one more course, an entire meal feels like just the right amount – and it’s certainly worth trying all courses.

I opted for the beef Carpaccio. Melt-in-the-mouth and peppery, the meaty flavour was beautifully set off by rocket and parmesan. My partner opted for the sprat, numerous white bait deep-fried and invitingly propped tail-up in a bowl. Also very tasty.

For the main course, I chose the pork belly. Utterly delicious, the soft meat was topped by a thick, crispy layer of salty skin. Served with apple sauce and crushed potatoes, the combination of flavours was exquisite. My partner chose the lamb, served on mashed potato, and was equally impressed with the simple yet perfectly balanced flavours.

For dessert, we chose the sharer dessert. Although usually a set three from the main dessert menu, the chef met our request to alter one of them. This resulted in trying the rice pudding with apricot preserve, the lemon meringue posset and the chocolate mousse with honeycomb ice-cream. All three delicious desserts were served with basil salt, an interesting addition taking the sweet offering to a higher level.

All of the food was excellent, and The Meadow thoroughly deserves its positive reviews and its receipt of a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2009. The only tiny issue was that the service, although exceptionally friendly and polite, was a little slow given how quiet the restaurant was. But as the food all seemed freshly cooked and was so good, it really didn’t impact on an excellent experience at The Meadow.

Cuisine rating: 9/10

The Meadow, 64 Western Road, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 2JQ | 01273 721182 | themeadowrestaurant.co.uk

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Posted in: cuisine